Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
